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Editor: Lewes, East Sussex, England

No. 284                                                                                    Spring 2007


A First Experience of Japan by Thomas Bowen, ni-dan.

The main difference between Japanese and Western Kendo is, I believe, the length that lower ranks go in terms of attitude regarding reigi towards the senior ranks as well as their peers in the dojo, as well as covering all aspects of Kendo outside the dojo. Obviously, however, the mindset and customs of the Japanese people can be very different to ours. I was offered an interesting view of this as it was just under a week before I actually had any keiko after I arrived in Japan.

I went to Japan on a home stay programme. Over the two months I stayed with four different families, in and around Kobe on Hyogo Prefecture, on the emainlandf of Japan, Honshu. The times varied, staying at one family for more than four weeks and another for only one night. The first thing that must be said when mentioning staying with Japanese is that their hospitality is really second to none: one cannot help but feel at home and among friends, even before having stayed there very long.

I normally trained three times a week, at two different dojo. The dojo I trained at were the Kobe International Kendo Club, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Isshinkan Kendo Dojo, and Tarumi Dojo, both on a Wednesday. I found keiko in Japan, especially in the Kobe International Club, to be quite similar to our own: for kiri-kaeshi and uchikomi, all ranks from the Senpai down to young children rotate round receiving as well as practising. For short sharp bursts of kakari-geiko and longer stints of keiko, the seniors stay receiving the practice. Keiko in the Isshinkan Dojo is slightly different, but again generally similar to our own. However, in the dojo I found the juniors will wait for an opportunity to practise with the seniors, and if they are not practising will ask other seniors for practice; a way that really brings out and displays the good attitude of the ranks, showing spirit by always asking to practise more.

Some of the differences I found were more basic. In the Kobe International Kendo Club, the line at the beginning and end of practice is taken in three rows, with the first line comprised of children, the middle line for the junior high school aged ranks, and the rear line for senior high school and adult ranks, including the junior senpai. Taiso is also taken a little differently in the Kobe International Kendo Club, with all the ranks forming a large circle before moving to the centre and placing the sword down in front from sonkyo before retiring again into a large circle for taiso. All ranks then return to pick up their shinai for suburi, which is also taken in the circle.

Of course, Kendo is a universal feeling and practice quickly began to feel like enormalf, but obviously with many differences on the surface.

Japan, however, is such a vastly interesting and different experience it deserves detail all to itself. Japanese cities have vending machines on every street corner, an amazing range of shops and shopping centres (especially in Kobe), architecture, and massive transport hubs. And this all has something extremely Japanese about it, even if it is a western-style restaurant or such. Japanese countryside is breathtaking even a small way out of the metropolises, and I believe really must be seen on any visit to the country.

The first experiences I had of Kendo in Japan were extremely interesting and valuable, of course, having trained in something very Japanese for a while but never having seen it done in its home country, as it were. Some of the difference in culture between our country and Japan is highlighted nicely in Kendo, such as attitude and spirit, especially in the sense of urging on each otherfs efforts. I quickly began to feel eat homefin practice.

In the dojo I spent the most time at Inoue-senseifs Kobe International Kendo Club, there are a large number of children who practise, and they practise in an extremely enthusiastic and disciplined way. They of course give one hundred percent in their own practice and then switch to receive from even the largest adult members, and I think this approach is one of the reasons for the very close-knit nature of the dojo. Other dojo, such as in Tarumi, also have large numbers of very young ranks, and the practice is equally lively and fervent. The approach to Kendo of always giving full spirit to every practice can easily be seen when watching the children, as well as how hard they try. I also managed to see a little practice by High School students whilst I was in Japan and the idea of really going for it here becomes coupled with a more developed physical self, resulting in the fast High School kendo.

I was also able to attend the National Athletics Kendo Championships in Ako-shi, a city that has a rich samurai history, being the home town of the Forty-seven Ronin. The Championships were certainly interesting and it was a real experience being there. Almost as interesting was the vast range of Kendo souvenirs in the adjacent field, such as tenugui and mini-shinai. Whilst I was in Ako on the last day of the event I was taken to the city museum which I really enjoyed finding out a bit more about its history.

The main trip I made outside of Kobe, however, was to the mountainside village of Yoshinoyama, some distance south of Osaka. The village is known for its location, surrounded by thousands of cherry blossom trees, and so according to Japanese tradition becomes extremely busy in Spring. However at other times it is a small very quiet village with some very interesting sites and beautiful views. I travelled there with Ryota Yasuda, the eldest son of Yasuda sensei from the Kobe International Dojo, but unfortunately we had only a short schedule in Yoshinoyama of three days. Nevertheless it was a fascinating stay, with two nights at the Kizo-in, part of a Buddhist temple which doubles as a traditional Japanese inn. On the full day, Ryota and I climbed some way up the mountains towards Aonegamine-san, the highest point in Yoshinoyama. There were many interesting sites including the Mikumari-jinja and the Saigyoan, a quiet and very peaceful dwelling in the pine forest high up on Aonegamine-san that was used by the famous Japanese poet, Matsuo Basho. This occupied most of the day, including the descent and returning to Yoshinoyama for a meal. The next day we went on another walk, east instead of south, as I was especially interested in the tomb of the Emperor Godaigo and the Nyoirinji temple, sites from an ancient time in Japan when there were two opposing Emperors.

Returning from Yoshinoyama I only had one week left in Japan, but it was certainly not empty or lazy. In particular I enjoyed the final practices at the dojo I had been practising at, even though it obviously tended to be strenuous at times. I felt very moved when the time came to actually leave Japan.

Going to Japan was, and I believe, will remain, to be one time in my life that really stands out from any other time. Such an interesting and prolonged experience has only deepened my interest in Kendo and, hopefully, will improve it as well. I am indebted to first and foremost, Sensei and Senpai Knutsen and also all of the senior ranks in the British Kendo Renmei who have started and progressed my career in Kendo.
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